Hi all,
I recently set out to make a custom condenser for my v7 scope. I started using the scope only a few weeks ago and am really impressed with the image quality from the standard condenser that comes with the base kit. However, I also bought the components to build the LED array and I fitted that to the scope - and that took the visuals to a whole new level. Here is a little guy I found in some pond water illuminated by the LED array(10x,LED darkfield, LEDs set to a high green ratio):
The LED comes with some drawbacks in the form of many visual artifacts for objects not in the currently focused depth of field. This is caused by the LEDs sitting close to the optic with many discrete locations of each LED, each LED can create its own artifact (with 64 LEDs that noise can add up quickly). This is especially noticeable on slides with many objects (at various depths) or slides viewed at higher magnifications.
My theoretical solution to this LED artifact problem is to condense the LED array to a high NA. I have found the prospect of doing that a bit daunting so I’m going to make a more traditional condenser first.
Here is a look at my optical test bench:
This is where I had fun relearning everything I had forgotten from physics class. This paired with this online simulator allowed me to build out my designs. This also allowed me to easily measure the focal distances of the generic lenses I bought on amazon.
This testing led to the first iteration of my condenser:
Unfortunately I did not know what NA was so I built probably the worst darkfield condenser on the planet with this design -resulting in a measured NA of 0.14! After educating myself on the topic some more I have V2:
This condenser can achieve a theoretical 0.72 NA (perhaps a bit more with the spherical aberration caused by the lenses). The lenses from Amazon cost about 0.80 cents each, and require 3 lenses per condenser. Uses a handful of m2.5 screws, and the stock LED board that came with my v7 kit. So it is quite cheap to build each unit.
The aperture is fully 3D printed (minus the screws used to hold it onto the condenser). It can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6584051
The light stops are little 3D printed plates that slide into a slot just after the aperture.
I finished assembly today and did some quick tests with a dry slide laying around that has a piece of duckweed/dust on it. I have honed in on the light block size needed for my NA for 10x and 40x. Here is how that looks.
First is the duckween in 10x with both brightfield and darkfield. Note that I have not spent any time honing in the focal distance of the condenser - which I think is causing the brightfield to appear more blown out than it should:
And finally for my 40x test (which I was very nervous about):
In the first of these two 40x images I was using a light stop that was too small and allowed for some light to leak, causing the gray background. There are severe aberrations within these 40x images but the video display is much cleaner so some of it may be due to the pi camera capture settings. (and probably a lot to due with the spherical lenses…)
Things I believe will improve the usefulness of this design:
- Aspherical lenses to correct the aberrations
- A purpose build aperture - this one can create odd edges
Going forward I wish to attempt the following.
- Figure out how to make a micro lens array to collimate the LED array.
- Develop a method to make my own aspherical lenses with silicon molds
- Combine 1 and 2 to build a condenser that does not require an aperture nor light stops as those will be controlled by the LED array in code.
If anyone has any interest in how this is constructed I can set aside some time to build out a thingiverse/bambu post with a bill of materials so others can have cheap (somewhat usable) darkfield.
Please let me know if there are any improvements I can make or designs I should look into - I basically started learning about this a week ago so my breadth of knowledge in this domain is really small.
Cheers, Jake



































