I have been working on new condenser ideas and I wanted to share one that I have been working on the past few weeks.
This new condenser is built around the LED Grid Illumination. My thought was that maybe instead of taking this array and placing it really close to the sample (as is the current way to utilize the array), I could instead project the array onto the sample from farther away. This comes with a few benefits.
- The LED grid can get really hot while in use and quickly evaporate a wet sample
- Projecting the grid down to a smaller area may allow for more light to hit the sample and create a clearer image at higher NA
To project this grid down onto the sample is much harder to faciliate than I thought it would be. The first thing that needs to happen is I need to collimate all the light coming from each LED on the board. To do that we need a lens for each LED to act as it collimator. When looking for lenses online I found 3mm ball lenses that would work - small catch, they cost 20$ each. To avoid spending over a grand on lenses I opted for the next best thing I could find, cheap boiling glass. I have used these in my testing and they are certainly not as optically clear as the real deal but they do produce roughly collimated light so they’re good enough.
With the boiling glassware I was able to create my first collimation array attempt. The optical train looks like the following:
Now you may notice right away there is a huge problem with this setup, however, I did not put this into the sim before resin printing my first go of it and was scratcing my head wondering why the image in the microscope was so horrible. The RGB LED dies have 3 discrete LEDs on the chip - this is a problem. Because they are seperated by some non-zero distance, so the collimation ends up spreading them apart.
It took me some time to work out, but I’m quite proud of my solution to this problem. Placing the lens farther from the source allows for the distances between the LEDs to be less significant in the generated image - this however does not create collimated light. To then collimate I added a second lens after the first that focuses on the conjugate image of the LEDs. This is a form of kohler illumination! Focusing first lens, defocusing collimating lens. Both the distance and double lens create a much more even collimated output. Here is the optical train for that:
This setup also allows for me to place a diaphram between the two lenses to clean up the output a bit. Also, the output is still a bit messy, but the center collimated light of all 3 colors which is important!
With this new optical train I was able to draft out parts to print:
The design has 5 printed parts total. If I was better at resin printing perhaps I could combine a few, but the support side of the prints always destory features.
The LED array fits into a seperating part with tubes for each LED leading up to the first lens (I did not want an LED to shine into a lens that is not in its train). All parts are held to the condenser via a long m2.5 screw. The scale here is very small.
Here is it placed atop a cheap Abbe condenser I got from China for around 13$:
With it I was able to capture the following at 20x. Pond sample, Stentors and Algae:
My slide and cover slip were very dirty so there are lots of extra abberations
These stentors are more impressive in real time as they move around - you can really see the detail in their moving parts.
I think with some more tweaking this could become a powerful illumination design.
There are a few things that I think this setup would benefit from:
- Better lenses. I just tossed the “lenses” in there straight from the boiling bag but I think that they have a less than perfect outside finish and lack sphereicity. I plan on making a micro tumbler to tumble them in polish compound to help with that.
- More precise lens positioning. It is really really hard to bechmark these “lenses” because of how small they are. I am placing them based on the sphere lens equations of focal distance and I have a feeling they are incorrect. And at this scale even a few tenths of a mm can create a worse image.
- Add a diffuse layer after the LEDs. I have no idea how I will manage it at this scale - but it should help with the color abberations!
This has been fun to work on. If anyone has any suggestions for this project please let me know. I am constantly iterating on it and would to hear if anyone has ideas on how to improve this system.
Cheers!
- Jacob



















